Anita's Trip to Kenya #1 .
After living in South Africa for 15 years I was missing my home Kenya, all Iwanted was to get in a vehicle with my husband (Kevin) and 4 year old son
(Byron) and drive through Kenya and,In April 2011, my dream came true and
what an experience it turned out to be!
We left Johannesburg on the Kenya Airways daylight flight to Nairobi, a
short 3h50 min flight and I was back where I was born and bred. My family
and friends met us at the airport and took us home back to the familiar
smells of "Nyama Choma (Braai)" chapatti, Prawns, Samosas, what a treat with
lots of Tusker Beer of course.
The next day our driver/guide Willy from Ndosa Safaris arrived with our
private 4 wheel drive land cruiser, we loaded the vehicle with snacks,
drinks, games for Byron and lots of excitement! We set off through the
suburbs of Nairobi onto the Thika Highway which is being completely rebuilt,
through Kikuyu farm lands and three hours later we reached the Equator with
Mt Kenya standing tall in the back ground. The Equator sign board must be
one of the most
photographed locations in Africa .. a must to do - and you can even get a
certificate! We then drove to Nanyuki for lunch at Barneys Restaurant at the small
regional Airport This was a first for me and to my surprise here was this
brightly coloured busy restaurant that serves simple yet tasty meals.. This
busy lunch spot is home to the Laikipia Outpost centre who offer information
about the Laikipia region including maps and general information which is
very informative.Nanyuki airstrip services scheduled and charter flights
between Nairobi/Nanyuki/Samburu and Loisaba.
It was fortunate that I had bought a map at the outpost centre because, as
we drove further north to the Laikipia Conservancy we took the wrong road
and became completely lost! There is no sign posting in this wilderness area
of remote beauty, eroded roads, villages spotted far and few between but,
with the help of the villagers and the map we arrived 5 hours later at our
destination, a private game ranch called Loisaba Lodge. I loved the
adventure, but next time would definitely fly !. Loisaba lodge is a seven roomed luxury safari lodge situated on a private
60,000 acre game ranch. It is a setting little changed since the Great Rift
Valley split Africa in two, creating the dramatic escarpment on which the
lodge is built. We settled into our spacious room with views that extend
for miles with Mt Kenya in the back drop, the Loldaiga Hills and the Mathews
Range. The next day, I drove around the ranch to see the other accommodation that
is offered which includes a 4 bedroomed cottage great for groups with its
own kitchen, staff and swimming pool and then drove another 20 minutes to
the Koija Star Beds which has 4 double star beds and is run by the Koija
Community, Koija overlooks the Ewaso Nyiro River and is 18 kms from the main
lodge. Meanwhile Kevin and Byron set off to experience the activities of the
ranch which include Quad Biking, horse riding; game drives and then returned
to the lodge for a swim and lunch. Apart from activities mentioned above
they also have a tennis court, bowling green, spa facilities, guided bush
and bird walks, cultural visits and mountain biking.
Mid afternoon we set off for an afternoon game drive in search of Elephant,
Lion, Hyena and Leopard alongside the endemic northern species that thrive
in this region namely-Gerenuk, Grevy's Zebra and Reticulated Giraffe. I had
secretly planned a camel walk to the Kiboko Star beds where we were booked
for the night, what I thought would be a 10 minute ride!! half an hour later
we are still bumping along and at sunset Kevin gave up and called the
vehicle to collect us. We arrived at Kiboko in the dark, the star beds are
run by the community there is no electricity and bathing is done by the
bucket shower system, all very different.
We sat by the bonfire with cold Tuskers in hand waiting for what was the
most delicious 3 course meal I have had in the bush. After dinner, we were
escorted by Samburu guards to our Star Bed. Byron was not sure about this
business of sleeping in a bed situated on the steep edge of a valley - hence
the 3 of us shares the enormous double bed .
Each Star Bed is designed on a raised, handcrafted, wooden platform that is
partially covered with a thatched roof. Homemade 'Mukokoteni' beds can
either be wheeled onto the open deck for a night under the stars, or left
under the shelter of the roof. The bedding is so warm and yes the hot water
bottle was welcomed, looking out at the stars while in bed was so peaceful.
Our peace was excitingly disturbed in the early hours of the morning when we
were woken by Hyena not even 100 metres away from us chewing on a kill.
We were awake bright and early watching the Kiboko dam, valley and the
spectacular sunrise - early morning tea and biscuits were welcome in bed!
We finally made our way to the breakfast table for an English breakfast
before heading back to the lodge to say our good byes and carry on with our
journey.....
To be continued.
